Let the Dot-Watching Commence!!

This Guest Post was written by my FM (Fabulous Man), Bruce Grant, on the eve of his 900 km Transpyrenea Race. Enjoy his account of all the thinking, training and planning that has gone into getting to the start line.

If you’re interested in following the race tracking, here’s the link (active Aug 1 to 18, 2023). Bruce is #43.

Note: there are multiple distance races happening concurrently. Some of these fasties are ‘only’ running 190km. If you click on a racer number, his/her race distance shows.

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Out of suffering have emerged the strongest souls; the most massive characters are seared with scars.

– Khalil Gibran

Know how sublime a thing it is to suffer and be strong.

– Henry Wordsworth Longfellow

I wanted to share a preview regarding the Transpyrenea race I will be starting on Aug 1. This is a ~900km run across the entire Pyrenees in France, starting close to the Mediterranean from an old fort at Le Perthus, and finishing on the Atlantic coast at the town of Hendaye. The route mainly follows the established GR10 trail. 

The main race website is at https://www.transpyrenea.fr/  if you’d like to see more race details. 

We will be carrying GPS trackers, so you can follow me along the way at https://en.follow.me.cz/tracking-en/Transpyrenea/#  – I’m #43. The numbered red circles on the map are the 24 checkpoints where we can get food, water and a place to sleep. The BV1, BV2, BV3 circles are “life bases” where we can access our personal drop bag to replenish our carried food, get new clothes, and maybe take a shower. 

If this sounds familiar at all, I completed the run in 2016 – and it was the hardest thing I have ever experienced, requiring a depth of endurance that I found came perilously close to the bottom of my internal well. It was not fun, and the effort to get to the finish was massive. However, I persevered through the discomfort, pain, weakness and hunger to reach the Hendaye boardwalk after 16 1/2 days. 

The premise of the race is “semi-self-sufficiency”, which means we have to carry up to 5 days worth of food, a sleeping bag and mat, rain poncho, water filter, an emergency shelter, and a collection of clothing and bits and pieces that will see us through. The trail is not marked by the race organisation. We have to rely on a GPS track and the normal GR10 trail markings – red and white blazes on rocks, trees, or signs – but these are variable in quality and distance apart; other trails also confusingly use the same red and white blazes.

We go through checkpoints about every 30-80km. These are often in a town hall/school/mountain hut where we can get a bit of food, water, and a tent to sleep in. 

Here’s the route – on the France side of the Pyrenees. 4 Life Bases (indicated with the star) and 24 CheckPoints (indicated with food symbol). The Checkpoints are between 30 and 80 km apart.

I’m anticipating finishing in 16-17 days again, but we’ll see how it goes. Martha will meet me at the end in Hendaye after her own adventure over in Italy, hiking the second half of the Tor des Geants race route.

My friend Kelsy asked me recently to help her understand what motivated me to go back, considering how extremely difficult I found it in 2016. It is a great question, and one I grapple with myself. 

Rarely a day has passed since that August when I have not thought about the race, the course, the people, how I felt, or what I saw. I guess it’s PTSD that was behind this, constantly reviewing a stressful and emotional experience, and envisioning what went wrong or how it could have been better. My primary conclusion from all the mulling is that while I am happy and proud of finishing the race then, I was not at all satisfied with HOW I got to the end: 

– I started out too fast (bad idea!); 

– I was worried about who was in front of me, or coming up behind (placing doesn’t matter); 

– I didn’t train enough (but that’s always true)

– and the number one reason I had such a tough time: I did not eat enough (I lost 6kg: no food = no energy = moving slow = crappy attitude)

It gets a bit more complicated than that, of course, but suffice to say that I am going back with the intention of managing my run better this time, in order to feel better along the way and ultimately feel better about how it all plays out. 

One crucial point going into the race this time: I am seven years older than in 2016. It has been a mental and physical challenge dealing with age recently, the changes have been quite dramatic and a wee bit shocking. The days of easy, back-to-back long runs and decent race results are very over, but I recognise this and accept that I can only do what I can do right now. And I’m OK with that.

I am also going into this with only about 11 months of run training, effectively starting from zero after 2 years of an enforced break with no running due to a hip injury.

I had a case of Transient Osteoporosis in my left femur neck and head, which is a rare condition that appears spontaneously. The bone is demineralised and susceptible to fracture, and the orthopedic surgeon I saw was very adamant about the risk. So no running. (or, in the words of my radiologist friend at the hospital where I work, “basically you pounded the shit out of your hip so take up swimming”). I did a fair bit of bike riding to keep my fitness up, but the running specificity was lost, so it was a slow build back to even feel comfortable running 10k. Also see note above re: age!

However, perseverance and a bit of a training plan seemed to work to get me along to the point where I feel confident going into this again. The osteoporosis disappeared after about 15 months, which apparently is typical. 

Logistics: 

– I’m planning to carry over 65000 calories of food with me this time [not all at once  :-)] My food will be split into four portions, according to the distance between Life Bases. I anticipate my travel time to be 3 days / 5 days / 5 days / 4 days between those 4 stations. At a Life Base, I will pick up a bag of approx 16000 calories of food to last through the next section.

– main meals are dehydrated backpacker food, which are generally pretty tasty. I’m planning an enhanced oatmeal breakfast each day, containing hemp, flax and chia seeds, and powdered whole milk or coconut milk. These oatmeal dishes provide ~850 calories alone, so make for a great daily start. I’ll also have nut-raisin-candy trail mix with dates, and some energy bars. This gets me to about 4000 cal/day. 

– the race will provide some kind of food as well, probably pasta dishes, cheese, sausage, and ???   I may adjust what I carry depending on what options the race organisation provides. 

– we can also buy whatever we like along the way from stores or restaurants. Last time, I ate six of the most amazing fresh croissants in my life one morning (at once), and also bought fresh goat cheese from a family farm up on some mountain. That said, I found that food was awkward to get along the way due to weird French closing hours, proximity to the trail, or time of day when I came by. 

All my food – grouped here into 4 piles of 16000 calories. Each pile should get me from one Life Base to the next.

– my chosen shoes are the Norda 1. This is a fairly new Canadian company, and this model is designed to be very cushioned and durable, so I hope they will work well. Last time, I had to run about 250km in shoes that had ripped holes bigger than a golf ball in the tops of them. They also lost their tread on the rocky trail, so we’ll see how these new ones fair. I was also looking for a cushioned shoe this time since the pounding caused the soles of my feet to go numb for over a month following the 2016 race. I have a pair of Saucony Xodus Ultra 2’s as a backup. 

Norda shoes – a Canadian company. Some shoe testers have put 1600+ km on a single pair!

– A full pack with food comes in just under 9kg, but add on another 2kg for 2 litres of water.  I’m using an UltraSpire Epic 2 – 30L pack. 

My mandatory Sea2Summit silnylon poncho can be set up as a tarp-tent with my hiking poles when I need to wild camp; BeFree water filter; Garmin eTrex 32x GPS; Black Diamond Storm 500R headlamp w/Petzl Iko Core as a backup; Sea2Summit Spark 1 sleeping bag; full length Thermarest Neo-Air pad; Big Agnes AXL pillow; Patagonia Nano-Puff pullover; cheap hotel slippers to wear at checkpoints; some additional clothing for nights/cool weather. 

– navigation will primarily be with my phone using the OsmAnd program but also Gaia and LocusMap as backup apps. I’ll have the Garmin eTrex as well for accuracy when needed, and a Garmin Fenix 7 watch as well. 

Contents of my pack, before adding food.

Have a great August! I’m going to be busy   🙂

Bruce

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Humble, as always.

I will be glued to the tracker feed for the next 2+ weeks. I hope you join me.

-Martha

Going On a Trip – Down Memory Lane

I’m on my way back to the Italian Alps. 

But this time, I plan to savour it.

Or, even better, I plan to remember it.

9 years ago, I completed the Tor des Geants, a 332 km foot race along the Alta Via n॰2 and n॰1 high routes. The race travels over 25 high mountain passes and has a total elevation gain of 24 000 m (78 700 ft). Without my FM, I would not have made it to the finish line.

Finish Line spin with my FM

I’m sure I don’t need to tell you that it was hard. But it was hard. Grueling. Exhausting. Anguishing.

There really aren’t words to describe how deep I had to dig to cross that finish line.

About half way through this event, I hit a wall. Crying and wallowing in self-pity at a major aid station, I was ready to pull the plug and declare myself unable to carry on.

But, as I struggled with the enormity of my looming DNF, I discovered that I had another level of drive hidden beneath the surface.

It wasn’t that I was unable to carry on. I had become unwilling.

Unwilling to go without sleep. Unwilling to head out into another night. Unwilling to hike up to a high pass just to come down the other side. Unwilling to hurt for a few more days.

But despite my extreme discomfort, I was still able to do those things. 

So I got my sh*t together and dragged myself out the door to suffer for another 182 km.

This is where I decided to DNF, then decided to keep going and then disconnected my long-term memory.

And as I did, something happened.

It seems that my brain shut down the parts that weren’t necessary for survival. For the rest of the race (approx 4 days), my brain didn’t make memories. 

This pass is called the Col de Champillon and, at 2709m, it is the 2nd highest on the Alta Via n°1 TdG route. Apparently I slept through it.

Although I was still able to put one foot in front of the other, I have no memory of the trek. Bruce took many photos and videos of me, sometimes I am chattering away, other times smiling and making jokes, and most often withdrawn.

Here I am, withdrawn, avoiding eye contact with the camera, unable to process anything except the next step.

For nine years, I have had trouble being proud of my success in this event – this event that I can’t remember. I know it must have been spectacular but looking through our photos is like scrolling through someone else’s album. I don’t connect with any of the sights.

Same pose, different time of day, different mountain peak. No memory.

Instead, I have a wispy, indistinct recollection of moments. My sleep deprivation caused incoherent hallucinations which left far more impact than any real experiences of the trip.

There – but not really all there. Vacant, unseeing eyes.

Even now, as I flip through our photo collection, I am more likely to remember the hallucinations I was having rather than connecting to the image.

Desperate for sleep, I would pass out cold if I allowed myself to sit.

So I am about to head back and trek this route on my own terms. For six days, I will fast pack the final 150 km of the Alta Via n॰1 – the section that eludes me.

I have booked myself into 5 rifugios along the AV n॰1, all of which are involved with the TdG each year, offering shelter, food and beds to racers. I visited them myself as a racer …. but I wouldn’t be able to pick them out of a line-up. 

I am going to luxuriate in a half board stay at each one, wining and dining in their restaurants for dinner and indulging in their hearty breakfast offerings. I will even be able to take away a picnic lunch to enjoy along the trail.

Each day, my trekking plans are for ~25 km of travel, which will usually include 2 high mountain passes (as well as many lesser passes). I expect to walk for 8 to 10 hours each day at a pace that allows for vista enjoyment, bakery stops in towns and chances to recall those long-repressed memories.

I am so curious to see how much of the trail, rocks and mountain vistas I can recall this time around. Maybe it will feel like a week of deja vu or maybe it will all be unfamiliar and new.

Will I be able to find this spooky monster rock?

Of course it will be hard. The severity of those climbs and descents was not a figment of my imagination! There may even be struggles and suffering. But I will lean into the adventure and pivot as necessary.

No matter how it goes, I will have a fully functioning brain that will allow me to take it all in and make new memories that will last.

If you’d like to read about my entire Tor des Geants experience in 2014, Click Here!

Kungsleden 500 km

Hiking along Sweden’s King’s Trail

As we make final preparations for our next adventure, I realize that I failed to post about our amazing hike through Sweden in 2018. I shared some photos on social media but ultimately I prefer the less temporary venue of a blog.

4 years ago, I might have written pages and pages, telling the stories and experiences we had but this will be a simple photo gallery of the most memorable parts. Here’s a pictorial tour of our 19 tent spots, each after a day of rural hiking and roughing it in the tundra.

Miles to Go Before We Sleep

We arrived in Hemavan, Sweden, after a two hour flight from Stockholm in a 15 seat prop plane. We deplaned onto the tarmac and headed into a 2-gate airport, similar to the one at home. With our two carry-on backpacks and our single checked bag, containing our tent, trekking poles, knives and various liquids, we walked along the single-lane, gravel road into town.

We found the decent-sized grocery store beside the highway where we loaded up on food for our journey. Although there was no scale available, we guesstimated that our packs were 14 kg each, which meant we had both added more than 8 kg of food weight to our loads. We shouldered the burden and headed upwards, towards the ski area, to find the Kungsleden trailhead.

I always like going South. Somehow it feels like going downhill. – Treebeard

For this adventure, we ignored Treebeard’s advice and started our 500 km trek in Hemavan, Sweden, and walked ever northwards towards Abisko.

This was truly an amazing trip. We walked every step (except for outrunning a thunderstorm on day 5) and planned nothing in advance (except for our train ride back to Stolkholm). We were challenged often by terrain, fitness and weather but always rewarded with gorgeous scenery, remoteness and Swedish hospitality.

With minimal planning, we start on this spontaneous trip. Tiny packs with few supplies but we’ve got big smiles and soaring enthusiasm.
From South to North, here are our sleep spots

Day 1 – Hemavan to Syterskalet (17 km)

One of our top 3 camping spots of the trip. The Syterskalet valley was truly spectacular!

Day 2 – Syterskalet to Tarnasjo +5 km (27 km) Continue reading Kungsleden 500 km

Sunshine Coast Trail Fast-Pack

Third Time’s A Charm

The Sunshine Coast Trail (SCT) first came onto my radar in early 2004 when our good friend (and ultra-running legend) George persuaded a small group of friends to run the trail from end to end. The plan was to run about 50km each day and have a fourth day to round out the entire 178 km route. Each day, we would have a specific end-point where we would stop, drive back to Powell River for good food and good sleep and then head back to the same location the following morning to begin running the next section.

In 2004, our group of 6 Smart Asses ran the SCT. Here we are at the 100 km marker [L to R – George Forshaw, Gail (Bazeley) Forshaw, Rob Lang, Sally Marcellus]
At that time, there were no FKT records to beat and we simply enjoyed the challenge of running somewhere new. As I was new to ultra-distance running and was not mentally ready for this kind of multi-day challenge, I took on the role of ‘crew’. I drove the back roads of Powell River in search of unmarked trail junctions, met the runners at their finish point each day and took them back out each morning. I often joined them in the mornings for the first 8 – 10 km and then retraced my steps back to the truck to begin my solo-navigation to their predicted end-point. The trail sunk its teeth into me then, with its grueling climbs, rocky outcrop vistas, and ancient forests. I longed to be able to do what my team was doing and I believe that this four day experience was the seed that started my ultrarunning pursuits. From our little group of six, three of our runners completed the entire SCT – Rob Lang, Sally Marcellus, Gail (Bazeley) Forshaw. George ran for three of the four days, I ran only a few dozen kilometers in total and Bruce, who initially had work commitments, ran the final two days on the trail. For Bruce and me, the trail remained unfinished business.

Fast-forward a decade to October 2013. Continue reading Sunshine Coast Trail Fast-Pack

Sunshine Coast Trail Gear Tips

Tips from a Light-Weight

While Bruce and I fast-packed the Sunshine Coast Trail, every time we met other hikers loaded down with 50+ pound packs, we were predictably asked how we were able to manage with such tiny backpacks.

Are we even wearing backpacks? You would never know from the front view!

As the days rolled by, we mulled over many possible answers and came up with this sweet sound-bite:

When you backpack, you can either have comfort while you hike or you can have comfort while you camp.

We opt for comfort while moving in order to move quickly and we are willing to sacrifice some luxuries in order to achieve that. Don’t worry – we still brush our teeth and eat three meals a day! And truly I don’t think that we were at all uncomfortable due to reduced gear. At the beginning of our 178 km trip, my pack weighed 14 pounds and Bruce’s weighed 19 pounds (before adding the weight of water). Continue reading Sunshine Coast Trail Gear Tips